Coily hair is the most delicate textured hair type. Not all curls are the same, and understanding what your hair needs is key to healthy, gorgeous results.
Characteristics Of Coily Hair
Coily hair is also known as type 4 hair, and can be divided into three subcategories: 4A, 4B, and 4C. It has either very tight coils that begin at the scalp, or ‘Z’ shaped angles.
Type 4A
The curl pattern of 4A hair is made of tight coils, roughly the size of a crochet needle. This hair type is very fragile and can be easily damaged so it’s important to look after it carefully and keep it hydrated at all times with rich hair treatments, leave-ins and butters.
Type 4B
4B hair is the first coily hair type that has a ‘Z’ curl pattern. It tend to be very delicate, so it’s important not to manipulate them too often. Reduce the frequency of hair washing to prevent the coils from being stripped of their natural oils.
Type 4C
4C hair has a very tight zigzag pattern and is quite fragile. This hair type experiences the most shrinkage and can be very dry, so washing it less often will help to keep it moisturised.
Coily Hair and Porosity
Porosity is the hairs ability to absorb and retain water. It indicates how healthy the hair is and how well it can hold on to moisture. Depending on your porosity, you will have different needs to maintain a healthy protein moisture balance: the higher the porosity, the more protein-rich products you’ll need in your routine. Coily hair is often higher porosity than straight hair, but it can be any of the three types. There are three porosity types:
- High Porosity: The cuticles are very open. This makes it extremely easy for moisture to enter the strand, but also just as easy for it to leave.
- Medium Porosity: The cuticles are slightly open, making it easy for moisture to enter the strand, but it won’t leave as quickly as in high porosity. This makes this hair type the easiest to look after.
- Low Porosity: The cuticles are very tight, making it difficult for moisture to enter the strands. But once it does it is retained very well.
How to Wash Coily Hair?
Coily hair is the driest curl type, so you need to protect the natural oils in the scalp. Washing too often may strip its natural moisture. Coily hair also tends to be quite fragile, so frequent washes are discouraged to avoid too much manipulation. At the same time though, you want to make sure you’re not washing it too little, or that may cause issues like flaking, itching or dry scalp. We recommend washing coily hair only 1-2 times per week. You can use either a moisturising co-wash, or if you like foamy cleansers you can use a gentle shampoo.
Even if you wash your coily hair less often, you should introduce a clarifying shampoo in your routine every 4-5 washes, to purify the scalp from build-up. You may also want to use a deep conditioner every wash day rather than a traditional rinse-out.
Top Tips For Styling Coily Hair
By styling your coily hair, you can really bring out its full potential. Using the right techniques and products will make sure your hair always looks its best.
- Apply all products with your head upright, dividing your hair into sections to make sure you are covering every single coil.
- Apply both leave-in conditioners and styling products on soaking wet hair. This will allow for easier detangling.
- Use a cream before stylers.
- Define coils and hold the style until the next wash day with strong hold gels.
- For a twist-out or braid-out, try a more flexible hold product.
- Make your style last longer – don’t fully break the cast on day one. Leave a bit of hold to ensure they maintain their shape for days.
- Encourage volume and fluff out the roots with a pick brush.
Styling coily hair is easier when it’s in the best condition it can be. Maintaining the right protein moisture balance is key to ensure optimal results.
Protect Coily Hair Between Washes
Coily hair tends to experience a lot of shrinkage, so during the night you want to make sure you are not scrunching your hair further. Rather than using a tight bonnet or scarf, we recommend sleeping on a satin or silk pillowcase. This will prevent frizz by preventing the hair from rubbing on harsh cotton. If your coily hair is longer, you may want to tie it in a pineapple style with a loose satin scrunchie before going to bed.
How to Refresh Coily Hair
As coily hair is washed less often, you may want to refresh it in between washes so that your style lasts longer.
- If your scalp is feeling itchy or dry, use a soothing scalp treatment and massage it at your roots
- Use a moisturising spray to keep your coils hydrated.
- For a bit more hold, smooth some gel over your hair in sections. Do not rake it in or it may cause more frizz.
- Glaze your ends with an oil or a rich butter to seal all the moisture into your strands.
How To Choose The Right Product For Coily Hair
Understanding your curl type is only the first step to nailing down the perfect hair routine. You need to keep in mind other factors like porosity, hair thickness and density to be able to pick the best products for your needs. If you’re still a bit confused, head over to our curl quiz for a little help!
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